Folded Essential Oils: What are they????

Distillation Contraption

 So last blog post we were discussing phototoxic essential oils and towards the bottom of the blog I mentioned "folded" essential oils.  Many of you are probably wondering just what a folded essential oil is.

To easily break it down, a folded essential oil is a pure essential oil that has been further distilled and thus concentrated even further from it's already highly concentrated form.  There are a couple of reasons one would want to do this, which will be explained momentarily.  Basically, during multiple  distillations the terpenes are extracted. These are the more volatile (and thus prone to oxidation) portions of the oil.  So one reason for "folding" essential oils would be to prolong the shelf life of that oil. Terpenes are also what make an oil phototoxic or photosensitising.  So further distillations also reduces many essential oils potential to harm your dermal layers (skin) when combine with ultra violet light exposure (IE: sunshine).

Folding also changes the scent of many essential oils.  Removing some of the more bitter properties of the oils leaves a cleaner, fresher, more "to the point" scent reference.  Another word for this process is deterpenation and the end product know as terpeneless oil (folded essential oils)

Essential Oil of Lemon

The most commonly "folded" essential oils are those of:
Orange, lemon, grapefruit, lime, tangerine, blood-orange, mandarin, and bergamot essential oils.
One will most often see 5-Fold or 10-Fold oils.  The higher the number the more times it has been "folded" or redistilled.





*Some people will argue that "folded" essential oils are no longer suitable for use in aromatherapy.
Even while using folded essential oils it is not recommended to use directly on skin or with only a carrier oil.  And still be mindful and avoid prolonged exposure to the sun.

What Are Phototoxic Essential Oils?

Sun Shine

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Essential Oils

So, you may be asking what are "Phototoxic" Essential Oils?  Basically, phototoxicity also known as photosensitization, occurs when certain essential oils are used either in products, carrier oils, or neat that have specific compounds within them that cause excess sun burn or damage to skin when used in conjunction with ultra violet light exposure.

Citrus

The compound that ties each of the phototoxic  essential oils together is a terpene called furanocoumarin.  It is this constituent that when on the skin acts almost like a prism, bringing more ultra violet light to the skin surface.  In turn, this makes the skin much more susceptible to burning, and ultimately skin cell damage.   Furanoides are found in the leaves and seeds of many plants but as with those in the citrus family it is most commonly found in the rinds of the fruit.  Furanocoumarins help citrus fruit to ripen and maximize the sugar content in each piece of fruit.

List of Phototoxic Essential Oils:

angelica root

anise

bergamot

cassia

cumin

fennel

ginger

grapefruit (cold pressed)

lemon

lime (cold expressed not steam distilled)

lovage

mandarin

orange (unless "folded")

opopanax

verbena

To learn more about "folded" essential oils visit us here, next week at BEAUTIFUL YOU

Hydrosols and Floral Waters

Solvent Extraction

Preparing Plant Material for Making Essential Oils

 What is a Hydrosol? This term is derived from the Latin words hydro and sol meaning "water solution".  Hydrosols come by many names including floral waters, herbal distillates, hydroflorates all of which are pertaining to the water that is a by-product of creating essential oils.  However the highest quality hydrosols come from artisans distillers who in small batches are steam distilling plant material strictly to produce these aromatic herbal waters. These waters contain all of the therapeutic properties and beneficial components of the plant being distilled only in a more mild form than their counterpart essential oils.

 Depending upon the application and type, essential oils are sometimes too potent, therefore a more mild form is not only desired but a necessary. Hydrosols can not only be used on infants but also people with compromised immune systems.  In most hydrosols the essential oil content is only about 5% of the overall volume.  Besides the aromatic constituents, floral waters contain many more of the plant acids than the pure essential oils, making them great for hydrating dry skin. 

Small Home Distillery

Large Steam Distillery Units

Though Rose and Neroli Hydrosols have been used since time immortal,  many of the other floral waters go down the drain as waste water (even today)  from the distillation process of essential oils. It is only in recent history that these exalted waters have begun being used in the aromatherapy fields and beyond.  We are just beginning to see hydrosols as a co-product instead of a by-product of the essential oil process. 

Due to the highly fragile nature of pure floral hydrosols it is strongly recommended to keep them out of direct sunlight, contained in dark bottles (glass is best) and in a cool place.  The shelf life of these waters varies from 6-24 months depending on which hydrosols are in question.  Even with an ideal, sterile environment they are still very susceptible to degradation through oxidation.  When purchasing floral waters one must be informed some companies are taking distilled water and adding a couple of drops of the desired essential oil and selling these as "floral waters" or "hydrolates".  While true floral waters have many other components of the plant with in, making it a far superior product. 

 Types of Hydrosols:
Corn Flower: great for delicate skin, helps diminish fine lines
Cypress: helps with acne, astringent and detoxifying
Geranium: balancing, acne, bruises, mild burns, eczema,   
              hemorrhoids, deters mosquitoes.
Helichrysum: anti inflammatory
Lavender: calming soothing, anti-inflammatory.
Lemongrass: balancing, calming, very refreshing.
Neroli (orange blossom): anti aging, gentile enough for all skin  
          types, great for uplifting dull oily skin types.
Rosemary: works wonders on oily skin with open pores.
Rose: balancing oil, quite possibly the best skin toner and
          re-hydration for dull, tired skin. 
Witch Hazel: very astringent, anti- inflammatory (strips skin of
            natural oils).
Ylang ylang: another hydrosol for oily skin.

There are as many different hydrosols as there are uses for them.  They can be used in combinations, in preparations, standing alone, for cooking, rinses and a vast array of other options. 

Are you familiar with hydrosols? Do you use them in your day to day practices.  Do you have questions about floral waters? Please leave comments as to your experiences with hydrosols and floral waters.  We would love your input!